The powerful rest of the rain; the two largest fluvial archipelagos in the planet and the largest hydrographical basin; hundreds of untouched islands which emerge and submerge according to the seasons, the lung of the planet…This is all ours, our sole responsibility.

The Negro River springs in Colombia’s pre-Andean region and runs to the Solimões River to form the Amazon River. The river’s 1,700 km of extension could be explained as an “illogical kaleidoscope”. Sailing on its waters is a constant variant, a constant change in humor where everything depends on everything and yet on nothing. Translating it into a navigation language, the waters are labyrinths and “paranás”(arm of a large river separated by an island from the main course) where each trip needs to search for feasible tracks on constantly changing waters. On the route, GPS, sonar and radar are good allies, however, they might not be enough to reveal the mysteries of a river which flows windingly and insinuatingly and which may not let us depart before the right time or maybe even invite us to settle down there.

A 15-DAY TRIP

3rdDay: Anavilhanas / Novo Airão
Early morning, departure to Novo Airão. Early birds will be rewarded with the high-pitched sounds which cut through the air; the ballet dance from the blue macaws; the flight of the parrots. After breakfast, we leave the houseboat to explore the Folharal Lake and to dive with floaters down the river. The name of the lake comes from the accumulation of leaves on the water. The vegetation, which falls off from the riverbanks as a result of the flooding, floats upon the waters forming natural gardens of ikebana. Afterwards, return to the houseboat for departure to Novo Airão. On arrival, diving among the pink dolphins. Next, lunch at a floating restaurant. Marilda, who owns the best restaurant in Novo Airão (I really miss the ”pirão” - mush or meal of manioc flour boiled in water), is also the protector of twenty pink dolphins which come to the back of her floating restaurant daily and allow to be entertained and fed by the tourists. After lunch, we ride around Novo Airão in bicycles (in excellent conditions) or, for those who wish, in motorcycles. Novo Airão is a very pleasant town, which is, by the way, a model of social, cultural and environmental projects. A program called Funbio makes the community aware of the extraction of wood and palm tree fibers in order to maintain the natural asset and the best management on material handling. Sunset at the floating deck Bonfim. Blue hues which become pink turn into violet which expands into orange, turning everything into golden colors; moon that is almost full.

4th Day: Novo Airão / The Baependi River
In the morning, departure to the Baependi River basin. Anchoring at the IBAMA’s (Brazilian Institute of the Environment and of the Natural resources You renewed) floating deck at the entrance of Baependi for crew and vessel identification. Lunch on board. Later, we leave the boat in order to explore the lakes of the region and the red waters of the Baependi River. Visit to the Sítio do macaco. In the evening, night observation of the local fauna.

5th Day: Igarapé do Ipiranga
In the morning, we leave the houseboat to explore the igarapé do Ipiranga, where we travel upon the images. At the bottom, the water reproduces what can be seen at the surface. Such is the mirage and integration is so perfect that one can reach a whole new angle of vision, a unique virtuality. Swimming at the igarapé and canoeing up the river. Depending on the igarapé water level (subject to the variations of the seasons and rains), it will be necessary to get off the “voadeira” (boat usually made of aluminum propelled by an engine) and walk around the vegetation and get on the boat again later, until we reach our overnight camping site. Lunch break while our team sets up the camping area. After a short rest, canoeing along the Igarapés’ mainland. Each curve keeps the silence... After sunset, return to the camping site. Overnight stay in the jungle around a bonfire, which burns all night long. Sleeping swayed by several sounds is constant. The night is never silent nor solitary. It is the soundtrack that keeps changing: during the day, the birds; late afternoon, the dance of the bacuraus (birds of the family Caprimulgidae); at night, the ritualistic howling monkeys - Alouatta Seniculus - (guaribas), dolphins and caimans.

6th Day: Igarapé do Ipiranga / Ipiranga Falls/ Jaú National Park
We wake up in the jungle and watch the spectacular sunrise. After breakfast, we proceed, in canoes, to the upper Ipiranga falls. Swimming in the falls. In the afternoon, we go down the igarapé, get on board of our houseboat and sail to Jaú National Park. Overnight stay at the dolphins’ lake in front of Ibama ‘s station.

* Five- day trip travelers: after breakfast, departure in “voadeira” to Novo Airão (a two-hour trip). From Novo Airão departure to Manaus (9 hours away). In Manaus, travelers are welcomed by our representatives, transferred to the airport and return to São Paulo.

7th Day: Jaú National Park/ the Carabinani River / Seringalzinho
We sail on the Jaú River to the mouth of the Carabinani River (Jaú’s tributary); we get off board and explore the falls in “voadeiras”. The day is totally devoted to swimming and to the falls. After returning to the boat, we continue our journey to Seringalzinho on the Jaú. The population made up of caboclos, who a lot of times have just recently left their Indian settlement, cultivates manioc continuously. We will observe the washing, drying and grinding processes. Tour around the Seringal (rubber trees area). In the evening, nighttime focus activities.

8th Day: Seringalzinho / Jaú River / riverside community
Breakfast in Seringalzinho. Later, departure to the Jaú Fall upwards the river. Depending on the water level, the waterfall may be concealed and therefore we go for a swim in the river. Afterwards, walking in the forest, and snacking in the foliaceous shade of the largest species of Amazon trees: the Samaúma. Late afternoon, return to the Ibama’s station. At night, exploring of the region by following the howling monkeys.

9th Day: Jaú / Moura / Mouth of the Branco River / Panacarica community
In the morning, we sail to Vila de Moura on the left bank of the Negro. On arrival, free time to explore the village. Provisioning of the boat and lunch. Later, we leave for the mouth of the Branco River, and sailing further down, we get to the narrowest part of the river: the passage through the pedral (place in the river where many stones impede navigation) do Guariba, at the crossing of the Amazonas state and Roraima. Right after, the converging of the black and white waters. Anchoring and snorkeling (at the convergence). Afterwards, return to the houseboat and departure to the community of Panacarica.
The Negro is a course which perpetuates time and its elements. Its black waters are ocher-amber shades to rust -colored hues. Its translucency is the result of the light which passes through two and a half meters deep into the river through an almost submissive body, which, therefore does not shine. Owing to the fact that the rocks from the riverhead region are very ancient – pre-Andean – very few mineral sediments are produced, therefore the abundance of water life is dramatically reduced. Such circumstance prevented this area’s plantation and occupation, but it assured its preservation. The acidity discourages the presence of winged creatures, which are popular in muddy waters, such as in the Solimões that are classified as clear. Reducing the abundance does not mean absence, but selection. The species, which live on the Negro are sophisticated and adapted to this environment. There is plenty of fish, that is, the Negro River is a blessing and its touristic purpose is a natural inclination.

10th day: Panacarica / Carvoeiro / Mariuá - Colaca Island
In the morning, our destination is towards Carvoeiro village. We go ashore in one of the most charming communities of the Middle Negro. We devote enough time to walk around the village, to visit Santo Alberto’s church and Mr. Pedro’s small bar and to talk to locals. Later, we sail towards the Coloca Island in the Mariuá Archipelago. Once on the island, we set up our camping site and await the dozens of macaws and parrots which land in the palm trees of Jauari. Sunset on the island.

11th day: Exploring Mariuá
In the morning, we leave Colaca Island and travel into the maze of islands which form the archipelago. The largest fluvial archipelago in the planet, Mariuá, has only recently been identified and it comprises about 700 islands. Due to its distance from the metropolis Manaus, it is an ecological sanctuary and a habitat which was preserved and, in many parts, unexplored. At different moments, it feels like walking through wild and uninhabited Lands before birds distressed by the unannounced presence and feeling threatened.

12th day: Mariuá / Barcelos
In the morning, we leave for the central region of the islands: Bixiga, Preguiça and Colima.
Just about to reach our final destination (30 minutes away from Barcelos), the captain asks the deck sailor to get the “voadeira” down to the water level and take the lead. Our houseboat disappears in the horizon, and we face the huge greatness of all elements: the serenity of the waters, the murmuring of the birds, the exuberant vegetal covering. The world is in its place, everything in perfect balance. We go back to the houseboat in the “voadeira”. The flight of stairs from the church in Barcelos comes into sight at sunset. It is time to go ashore.” Some things in life only last long enough to become unforgettable”. Transferring to the inn.

13th day: Barcelos
In the morning, we stroll around town, get to know the fruit from Santo Alberto ranch, the Piaba Project, the Piloto community, the beaches on the right banks of the river, the Caués road and its unusual bridges. In the afternoon, we have plenty of time to sit down and watch the world go by.

14th day: Barcelos / Manaus / São Paulo
In the morning, transferring to the airport for departure to Manaus. On arrival, welcoming and transferring to the hotel. Free afternoon for independent exploring. At night, transferring to the airport and departure to São Paulo.

15th day: São Paulo
Arrival in São Paulo in the morning.